Published
in Travel Africa Edition Thirteen: Autumn
2000
Contact
Alexa for your very own experience!
ACTIVITIES: ADVENTURE HOLIDAYS IN AFRICA
Spice up your safari by including some form
of activity in your itinerary. No matter your
age, budget or fitness, adventure takes on
many forms in Africa. Not only will you have
fun, it will add another dimension to your
holiday. Here's an idea of what's on offer.
Adventure tourism is the riskiest
form of ecotourism, but each year its ranks
of participants swell. In some situations,
particularly where official controls are lacking,
macho-maniac and fear-fanatic operators could
subject you to unnecessary risk. Licensed,
controlled and reputable organisations should
therefore be used wherever possible.
It is worth bearing in mind
that whilst certain locations may be "specialist"
others will cater for several activities.
For example, base jumping is probably the
only survivable sport found on top of the
Carlton Centre in Johannesburg but at the
Victoria Falls you can try bungee jumping,
canoeing, kayaking, rafting, river boarding,
microlighting, helicopter rides, walking safaris,
fishing, abseiling, skydiving and horse- or
elephant-riding.
Footloose (Hiking/trekking/walking)
In West Africa hiking is possible in a number
of national parks but trails are usually short
and not easy to follow. However in Sierra
Leone (Mt. Bitumani), Mali (Dagon Escarpment)
and Nigeria (Cross River NP) major treks are
feasible.
Some of the finest hiking on
the continent is at Mt Elgon, which straddles
the Kenya-Uganda border. The Usambera and
Pare peaks in Tanzania's Mahale Mountains
and Meru Crater in the Arusha NP are other
worthy challenges. Three nature reserves on
Rodrigues Island also provide excellent walks
and trails on Reunion Island stretch up to
12 days.
It is in southern Africa, however,
that trekking is best provided for. Zambia's
Luangwa Valley is renowned for offering some
of the finest game-viewing walks in Africa.
In Zimbabwe, the Eastern Highlands are criss-crossed
by trails, some of which involve rock climbing.
Mana Pools NP is favoured by wildlife trekkers,
as are the 4-5 day backpack game-viewing walks
in Matusadona NP.
In Namibia there are three trails
through the Daan Viljoen Game Park near Windhoek
and unaccompanied routes through the Naukluft
Mountains, on the Waterberg Plateau and along
the Ugab River. The best known challenge,
however, is the 4-5 day, 85km trek through
the Fish River Canyon (see Ed 11, pp 36-40).
Also strenuous are the rhino-tracking walks
arranged on request at two camps in Northern
Damaraland.
In South Africa there are a
plethora of hiking clubs - some more social,
others, such as the Trails Club and the Mountain
Club, for the serious. Every province has
hiking routes with good facilities. The most
popular are probably those in the Cedarberg,
through the Magaliesberg, in the Langeberg
and around and on the awesome Cathedral Peak
in the Drakensberg Mountains. A hot favourite
is the five-day, 41km Otter trail in the Tsitsikamma
NP but there is a long waiting list. Camp-out
wilderness trails are conducted in the Kruger
NP For many hikers, however, the Augrabies
Falls NP trails are paradise, whilst for others
the Amatola trail in the Eastern Cape is the
most spectacular, high demand-high reward
experience.
On the Rocks (Abseiling/rock
climbing/kloofing)
Mountains all over southern Africa provide
challenges for the crash helmet-and-rope-brigade
and clubs are to be found in many major cities.
However serious rock climbers head for the
cliffs of Chapman's Peak and Table Mountain
in South Africa. The former overhang the sea
whilst the latter, at 100m, provide probably
the world's longest vertical abseil. Another
favourite is the Kamikaze Canyon near Gordon's
Bay that includes a descent through a 60m
waterfall. Perhaps the funkiest way of opening
the adrenaline glands is sliding down the
waterfalls in the Mfongosi River Gorge near
Kransdorp. Kloofing the 3069m Piton des Beiges
in Reunion is also highly regarded.
For serious mountaineers reaching
Kilimanjaro's Uhuru Peak at 5895m (the highest
point in Africa) is possibly THE challenge.
However the snow covering and twelve glaciers
of Mount Kenya make this the world's toughest
ice mountain. Good, less populated alternatives
are the Ruwenzori Mountains and the Virungas
in Uganda - political conditions allowing.
Climbing Mount Elgon from Kenya and the oft
snow clad peaks of the Oxbow area in Lesotho's
Maluti Mountains are also popular challenges.
West Africa's peaks are not
particularly high and the rock is often unsuitable
for climbing. One exception is the area of
Hombori in Mali where some 1000m rock formations
jut out of the desert floor. These and other
peaks in Mali attract climbers from Europe.
Going beneath and below the mountains is also
possible. Cavers head for the 4500m of passages
in Namibia's Arnhem Cave - the sixth-longest
in Africa and home to bats for the last 9500
years.
On the Road
In West Africa's towns Hash House Harrier
Clubs cater for those (mainly expats) given
to jogging. South Africans, on the other hand,
are taking to trail running - fell running
to the British, fast packing to Americans.
Four days of hard running through the Waterberg
or Drakensberg Mountains is for the very fit,
requires booking overnight rest huts and needs
logistical backup.
Less serious are two annual
"fun runs", which anyone may enter,
but they do require booking. Probably the
most demanding trail run is the 500km Blue
Cross in Zimbabwe. Starting at its lowest
point, the Save-Rundi River junction, it climbs
up to the country's highest peak, Mt. Nyangani
at 2592m. The slightly less insane do it on
mountain bikes.
Up and Down the Sands
Near Swakopmund and Walvis Bay in Namibia
there are a number of people not satisfied
with simply clambering up the dunes - or even
just running down them for that matter. They
surfboard the descent, lying on a sheet of
hardboard or ski down standing on an even
smaller plank (dune boarding). Perhaps not
a major pastime but it could provide a break
from more sustained activity.
Another craze occupying increasing
numbers of young holidaymakers is beach volleyball
- BVB to the committed. Even if you're a hacker
(beginner) you'll soon learn to jump serve,
dig, skyball, spike, shank and sand-out. It's
very sociable too. Addicts will be found at
play on most popular beaches.
Back in the Saddle Again
For equestrians, stables, racing, riding and
polo clubs are found in most of the biggest
cities in East and southern Africa. However,
watching game or exploring the countryside
from a saddle is a variant worth considering.
Seated on the back of a horse or elephant
you can get up close and even in amongst otherwise
nervous wildlife. Many thus rate riding far
superior to game viewing by vehicle, particularly
as you're not confined to established tracks
and can explore the bush at leisure.
A number of game farms and wildlife
reserves (such as Ndabushe near Johannesburg
and Matobo Hills NP outside Bulawayo) now
offer horseback excursions or longer safaris
with overnight stops at bush camps. Those
wishing to ride pony trails in a challenging,
awe-inspiring environment should try trekking
the Maluti Mountains in Lesotho. Consider
also riding over the rolling, Eastern Cape
sweetveld, through the Stormberg Mountain
range or across the Cape flats on deserted
Strandfontein beaches. Alternatively there
are the highly recommended 2-10 night trails
over Malawi's Nyika Plateau.
Another inspiring experience
is mule trekking in the Simien Mountains in
Ethiopia. The trail winds along the spectacular
Tekeze Valley 2000m below the mountain peaks,
with overnight stops in peasant tukuls (huts).
Something very different, much less demanding
and authentically Namibian would be a donkey
cart drive in Walvis Bay.
Elephant-back game-viewing safaris
are becoming the vogue. Some offer little
more than a couple of hours of the "done
it and here's the video to prove it"
experience. In the Okavango, however, more
extended journeys await those with hardy rumps
and a zest for something unusual.
For anyone really bent on punishing
the posterior the 1-7 day camel safaris organised
by the SNV (the Netherlands Development Organisation)
north of Arusha are a really physical, but
unusual, challenge. The shorter duration camel
riding experiences, with full Arabian gear,
that are available near Swakop in Namibia
are far superior to those offered in Egypt.
There are several efficient and rewarding
treks available in central and northern Kenya.
Anyone becoming addicted is invited to participate
in the Great Tanzanian Camel Race that takes
place annually at Meserani Snake Park!
Water, Water Everywhere
Fancy a bit more than paddling, wave dodging
and beachcombing? Why not try body or board
surfing? There are enthusiasts and clubs on
most major beaches who will happily help you
get started. Wave skiing and wave sailing
addicts also frequent the Natal coastline
but one of the world's best locations is the
Atlantic swell off the Cape of Good Hope.
The next step is into snorkelling
and scuba diving amongst Africa's highly rated
offshore reefs and coral gardens, notably
from Dar es Salaam down to Natal. Particularly
favoured spots are around the East African
islands of Unguja (Zanzibar), Pemba and Mafia,
off Mauritius and Reunion (Saint Leu) and
off Bazaruto and Benguerra islands in Mozambique.
Equipment hire and training courses are widely
available. Inland, the turquoise lagoons and
coral reefs in the Maldives and around Cape
Maclear on Lake Malawi are highly rated and
popular.
Pulse rates can be lifted by
shark diving at the Two Oceans aquarium in
Cape Town - or in the open seas! One of the
best places to dive for Great Whites is at
Aliwal Shoal, off KwaZulu-Natal's coastline.
True adrenaline junkies don
helmets for whitewater rafting and, after
training, river kayaking. Tops, of course,
are the boiling rapids below the Victoria
Falls but the Usutu River in Swaziland has
challenging grade 4 rapids and few people
on its waters. Another favourite is the grade
5 rapids on the Nile in Uganda.
River rafting is a little less
turbulent along the Breede, Umfolozi, Lukskei,
Orange and Umzimvuba rivers in South Africa
- the latter voted by National Geographic
as "one of the last unspoilt fragments
on earth". Rapids of the Pungwe River
in Zimbabwe and the Kunene in Namibia are
also rafted but river boarding is largely
confined to the Zambezi and in the Hluhluwe-Umfolozi
Park in South Africa - the latter the only
place in the world where you can see all of
the "big five" whilst doing this.
Those preferring a more sedate
and mystical experience must take a 3-5 day
canoe trip between Kariba and Kanyemba on
the lower Zambezi. Alternatively be poled
in a pirogue (canoe) along the waterways and
lagoons of the Ivory Coast, or in a mokoro
(dug out) on the Okavango swamps.
Riding the Waves (Sea
kayaking)
Sea kayaking, one of the fastest-growing sports,
can be enjoyed by people of all ages and degrees
of fitness. The specially designed kayaks
have watertight hatches, sealed cockpits and
robust rudder systems that make them easy
to paddle and ultra stable on the seas. They
make excellent platforms for fishing, birdwatching
and photography.
Newcomers to the sport are encouraged
to complete a basic training course and develop
their skills on inland waters and river estuaries
before tackling the open ocean. In South Africa
there are over 50 accredited routes, of which
the West Coast trails are best known and probably
the safest. However sea kayaking also takes
place off the coasts of Namibia, Madagascar,
Mozambique, Kenya, Tanzania, Ghana and the
Ivory Coast. The sport is also popular on
the Red Sea and on Lake Malawi.
Hook, Line and Sinker
Fishing, the world's largest participatory
sport, has been a livelihood and pastime in
Africa for 20,000 years. Off its coasts, marlin,
mackerel and tuna are fished from boats from
east coast islands and resorts such as Bazaruto.
Over 400 boats regularly hunt big game fish
off Mauritius. Fishing along the quieter coastal
beaches, from Namibia, round the Cape and
up the east coast, for King and Queen ignoblis
and other game species, has many addicts.
You can catch your own crayfish off the South
African and Namibian coasts between mid-November
and June, but laws governing size and sex
of take must be observed.
The Okavango delta, inland dams such as Kariba
and Cabora Bassa and rivers (most notably
the Zambezi) find anglers seeking bream (tilapia),
the famous fighting tiger fish, pike, barbel
and carp (one of the largest freshwater species).
The king of freshwater fish,
however, is the Nile perch. Specimens in Lakes
Tanganyika and Victoria, and below the Murchison
Falls in Uganda, commonly weigh 40kg with
some topping 100kg. Fly fishing for brown
and rainbow trout is pursued in many highland
rivers, particularly in the Drakensberg, Mpumalanga
escarpment (in South Africa) and the Nyanga
Mountains in Zimbabwe, as well as in Kenya's
Aberdare NP.
Come Fly With Me
Hot air balloon flights offer one of the most
satisfying ways of seeing some of Africa's
scenery. Best known of these are the Serengeti
Safari from Seronera or the exhilarating flight
over the Namib to a champagne breakfast on
the desert sands. A tethered balloon rises
above the Victoria Falls but for those looking
at ballooning as an active sport South Africa
is the place to visit. Here there are a number
of clubs where navigational challenges, Hare
and Hound races and other flights of fancy
are pursued under the watchful eye of the
Balloon and Airship Federation of S.A.
Microlighting is another popular
airborne sport, particularly in the subcontinent.
Microlights are also used for short "flips"
over the Victoria Falls but many visitors
prefer the body of a helicopter between them
and the rising spray below.
For real "crazies"
skydiving and paragliding are sports gaining
popularity. The oldest parachuting club in
the Commonwealth, at Pietermaritzberg, is
one of a number offering skydiving over South
Africa and Namibia. Many run tandem free-falls,
formation skydives and annual boogies (rallies)
as well as training courses for novices.
Hang-gliding and Paragliding
Associations in South Africa and Namibia strongly
regulate these sports and license all operators.
Again there are many clubs spread across these
countries, most of whom offer full training
courses and, thereby, preparation for the
ultimate "ride" off Table Mountain.
The record for the highest woman paraglider
in the world was set in Namibia in 1991. Paragliding
is also a local passion on Reunion Island.
Then there are the realms of
the totally insane - bungee and base-jumping.
Falling for fear from the Victoria Falls Bridge
certainly has its addicts. Amongst them are
some that strap themselves into a white water
raft before being thrown off the bridge. Equally
certifiable are those who leap off high rise
buildings in cities like Johannesburg. Base
(Building, Antenna, Span (bridge) and Earth
(cliffs)) jumping, parachute on back, from
the cable car on Table Mountain or the Carlton
Centre are ultimate "musts" - so
they say.
Wheel Deals
For the strong-thighed there are road cycling
and mountain biking clubs in most of the southern
and in some East African cities. Fun rides
are regularly advertised in the press and
BMX tracks for youngsters are to be found.
Ndabushe Wildlife Sanctuary near Johannesburg
is one of very few reserves that allows pedal
pushers in. Keen mountain bikers in South
Africa should contact Forest Flyers or Wild
(Women In Love with Dirt!). Amongst the best
trails in the country are Devil's Peak on
Table Mountain, Cathedral Peak in the Drakensberg
and Knysna Forest. The mountains of Reunion
are also much favoured by mountain bikers,
and there is growing interest in cycling safaris
in East Africa, especially among the lakes
in the Great Rift Valley.
There are a few companies in
South Africa which offer motorcycle safaris,
some stretching into East Africa. On tour,
4x4 vehicles are used in wildlife reserves
where bikes are prohibited.
Quad biking (riding four-wheeled
motorcycles) is a fast-growing pastime and
an excellent way of exploring areas such as
the dunes outside Swakopmund and in the Namib
as well as the Natal and Mpumalanga countryside.
Rides of 1-4 hours and multi-day tours are
on offer.
Those preferring petrol and
padded seats may find hiring a 4x4, or joining
a safari using such vehicles, an excellent
way of exploring off the beaten track. Several
companies cater for both preferences and there
are a series of good trails in southern Africa.
There is, for example, a 20-day desert trail
safari that may be done in a 4x4 vehicle or
on a motorbike. There are also shorter trails
such as the 70km Pongola and slightly longer
Richtersveld and Namib-Naukluft trails. DIY
explorers may enjoy the run from Isiolo in
Kenya across some of the harshest desert in
Africa to, and then through, the Bale Mountains
in Ethiopia.
For all you need to know, read
A Complete Guide to Four-Wheel Drive in Southern
Africa, by A White, Waterman, Johannesburg
1994.
Luxury Train Journeys
If you're looking for en suite facilities,
black tie dinners and air conditioning there
are five options in southern Africa. Rovos
Rail's Pride of Africa trains serve champagne
on trips between Cape Town, Knysna, Pretoria,
Victoria Falls, Swakopmund and Dar es Salaam.
There's the famous Blue Train that links Cape
Town and Vic Falls through Pretoria and offers
excursions in Bulawayo and Hwange NP. The
Train de Luxe, carrying three classes of accommodation,
also runs between Johannesburg and Victoria
Falls, where steam locos and pre-war coaches
are used on the Safari Express.
Union Limited also boast first
class steam luxury on their journeys from
Cape Town, through the garden route (Knysna)
to Oodshoorn and back. Take in the Namibian
desert by riding the Desert Express between
Windhoek and Swakopmund, or take the Shongololo
Express running between Cape Town, Johannesburg
and Etosha. Their packed itinerary includes
sightseeing in safari vehicles and a variety
of more active diversions such as rafting,
horse and balloon riding.
Real Africa by Rail
If you want to see slices of the real African
bush, its inhabitants and their daily life
routines, step aboard "local" trains.
The nearest thing to luxury will probably
be a bowl of chicken and rice and a clean
toilet - if you can find either. Departure
delays, frequent stops and periodic breakdowns
are all part of "getting to know you".
The beauty is they're cheap - often dirt cheap
- real eye-openers, and you don't have to
book.
Try the Xai-Xai flyer running
inland from the Mozambican coast - all three
days for 50km. The Zambezi Express from Livingstone
through Lusaka and on by a domba-domba (picking
up) puffer to Kitwe is a great way to see
rural Zambia.
For the really hardy the Kilimanjaro
Express that traverses the 1600km Uhuru (freedom)
or Tazara railway between Kapiri Mposhi (in
Zambia) to Dar es Salaam is the ultimate African
rail adventure. The Sugarloaf train crawling
through the debris of war-torn Mozambique
to Liwonde in Malawi is another spectacular
experience for the truly adventurous.
For more details consult
Southern Africa by Rail, by P. Ash, Bradt
Publications, 1998.
Contact
Alexa for your very own experience!
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